When SELECTED partnered with Circ - an innovator in textile-to-textile recycling - they developed two new styles using Circ's next-generation recycled fibres, producing a pilot capsule of around 400 garments. Not a massive volume by any measure. But according to Louise Lund, Sourcing and Sustainability Manager at SELECTED, the real value wasn't in the numbers. It was in everything they learned along the way.
Let's start with the obvious question: why does it actually matter - it's only 400 garments?
"It's a fair question. From a commercial perspective, 400 garments won't make a significant difference. But the purpose of a pilot like this is not the volume - it's the learning.
Innovation is about understanding what works, what doesn't, and what it takes to bring new materials into a commercial supply chain. Quality, cost, scalability and compatibility with existing production processes are all important factors.
By working closely with innovators and suppliers, we gain valuable insights into both the opportunities and challenges. Not every innovation will become commercially viable, but even understanding why something doesn't work helps us make better sourcing decisions in the future."
Why engage with a new technology before it's fully scaled?
"Because the earlier you engage, the more opportunity you have to shape the outcome. We can't wait until everything is perfect. If we want these technologies to work within our supply chain, we need to be involved early.
But it wasn't a straightforward process. Neither we, nor our suppliers, had worked with this material before, so we had to rethink our usual approach, work more closely together, and introduce additional quality checkpoints. For example, making yarn tests before weaving and evaluating fabric performance along the way helped us identify potential issues early.
That's part of innovation - navigating uncertainties, learning together, and understanding what it takes to eventually scale."
What makes next-generation fibres a priority for SELECTED right now?
"Exploring new materials is an important part of preparing for the future. We want to understand what new technologies can offer, how they perform, and whether they can become viable alternatives to conventional materials.
Next-generation fibres offer interesting opportunities to explore new ways of turning textile waste into materials that can be used in clothing again."
What was the biggest learning from this collaboration?
"That successful innovation isn't just about the material or technology - it's equally about collaboration, knowledge sharing and quality assurance across the entire supply chain.
Working with a new material made us realise how important it is to involve everyone, from the innovator and spinner to the fabric mill and garment manufacturer. Each step depends on the previous one, and challenges at one stage can affect the final product.
Traditionally, we don't bring all these partners together, but this experience highlighted why we should. Better communication, sharing technical knowledge, and taking joint responsibility across the supply chain are key areas we need to focus on when working with new materials."
So, coming back to those 400 garments - was it worth it?
"Yes, because the real value goes beyond the 400 garments. We've gained valuable experience and learned what it takes to bring new materials into our supply chain.
These learnings are also an important part of our broader ambition to reduce our dependence on virgin fibres and increase the use of recycled alternatives. By testing new materials in real production, we get a better understanding of our supply chain readiness, and what it takes to achieve material performance. It’s all steps on the path to eventually bringing them into our collections at a larger scale.
It's not about getting everything right the first time. It's about learning how to do it better next time."
The styles are made of 100% Liva Reviva™ x Circ® Lyocell fiber, containing 30% Circ® pulp recovered from post-consumer and post-industrial cotton-polyester textile waste.
The result of the pilot is a pair of straight-leg trousers and a relaxed shirt for women. Soft and smooth with a fluid, viscose-like drape, the fabric complements the relaxed silhouettes and gives the pieces an effortless, refined expression.
